Cup nest of the Great Reed-warbler Cup nest of a Redwing, with baby chicks.
Email 9K Shares Building a basic chicken coop for a small flock of birds is a solid weekend project for the determined do-it-yourselfer with basic carpentry skills, while the more elaborate coops could easily take several weeks and will require advanced carpentry skills.
The internet is awash in plans for backyard chicken coopswhich are a great place to look for inspiration, but all coops have two main components: The enclosed space should open directly to the run, but should be elevated at least two feet above it so there is space to collect the droppings that fall through the floor.
More on that in a moment. Plan for Size and Location The first thing to consider is size. The accepted minimum sizes are 2 to 3 square feet per bird inside the coop and 4 to 5 square feet per bird in the run. Chickens need shade in the heat of the day, so locating the coop under a large deciduous tree is ideal — they will be cool in summer and can bask in the sun during winter once the leaves have dropped.
Build the Frame As with most outbuildings, the simplest approach is to begin with a rectangular frame and then add on the various components that are needed. The open-air run should be covered with chicken wire metal mesh on all sides to prevent predators from entering.
Cut the posts so the front ones are 8 feet tall and the back ones are 6 feet tall in preparation for installing a pitched roof over the enclosed portion. This post is to support a gate that will serve as an entryway to the run and should be 8 feet in height.
Attach the gate frame to the corner post with galvanized gate hinges. For example, if the coop was 12 feet wide, these posts would be 4 feet from the posts on the left side corner posts. These posts are to support the frame of the enclosed portion of the coop.
They should correspond to the height of the other front and rear posts. These will support the floor of the enclosed area. Cover the back one-third of the floor with chicken wire.
The chickens will be roosting above this part of the floor and the hardware cloth will allow the droppings to fall through so they can be collected from below. Dig a inch trench around the perimeter of the run. Stretch chicken wire between the posts for the run area on the right two-thirds of the rectangle, vertically between the posts as walls and horizontally as a ceilingusing poultry staples to attach it to the wooden frame.
Install the chicken wire so it goes to the bottom of the trenches for protection against digging animals and re-fill the trenches with soil to hold it in place. Cover the gate frame with chicken wire, as well. Wear gloves while working with the chicken wire because the edges are sharp.
Illustration by Susan Huyser Step 3: Outfit the Interior The interior of the run needs nothing more than a thick layer of straw over the ground to absorb chicken droppings and moisture when it rains. The base of the waterer should be 6 to 8 inches above ground level.
If the run does not receive shade during the hottest hours of the day, add a layer of shade cloth on top of the chicken wire ceiling. Build a gently sloping ramp at least 8 inches wide from the ground level up to the platform for the enclosed area. Before this area is enclosed, outfit it with the following items: These can be as simple as wooden shelves with plywood dividers that are filled with straw.
Add a 2-inch piece of wood across the front of the boxes to keep the straw from spilling out. There are also prefabricated nest boxes availablethough some chicken keepers use plastic kitty litter boxes for nests because they are easy to remove and clean periodically.
The roosts should be positioned higher than the nests. Chickens are descended from tree-dwelling jungle fowl and will always seek out the highest point to sleep and the nests will quickly become soiled if the chickens use them for roosting.
Finish the Exterior Now is the time to add a roof and walls to enclose the nesting and roosting area. Any weatherproof material may be used, but tin is an easy, yet fashionable, choice for the roof, and wood siding makes a quaint exterior for the walls.Thai stilt house – A kind of house often built on freshwater, e.g., a lotus pond.
Vietnamese stilt house – Similar to the Thai ones, except having a front door with a smaller height for religious reasons. The location and the size of the entrance hole will depend on the type of bird you are trying to attract.
Start with the front or back birdhouse pieces, and attach the sides. Nail the front and back to the sides. Hands-on Activity: Build a Birdhouse Contributed by: K Outreach Office, Worcester Polytechnic Institute.
TeachEngineering. Browse; Activities. Build a Birdhouse.
Quick Look. Grade Level: To describe properties of materials used and why they are good for building a house.
The use of materials, wood and nails or glue, and a tool, the hammer. Finish the Construction. Once the paint is dry, add the roof using glue and nails. To hang the birdhouse from a tree branch or garden hook, screw in two eye hooks along the roof peak.
How to Build a Barn Owl Nest. By Anita B. Stone on May 7, May 07, When you have completed the house, you can install a single or multiple boxes at the end of your produce rows.
7. Mount Your Box Photo Essay: Goats in Sweaters. Who Can Stop These Adorable Pigs? Popular. A Bird in the House by Margaret Laurence Essay - In A Bird in the House, Margaret Laurence is able to incorporate many themes and motifs into her stories such as, war, tragedy, religion, and faith. Another theme that is also shown throughout the book is identity, both national and individual identity.